Summer squash, especially zucchini, is often the Rodney Dangerfield of summer vegetables. The brunt of jokes, it gets no respect despite being the backbone of many a popular seasonal dish from appetizers to main courses, breads to desserts (yes, even ice cream).

Though the zucchini we’ve known in the U.S. for less than 40 years was developed in Italy, summer squash originated in Latin America millennia ago.

This relative of both melons and cucumbers comes in all sizes, colors, shapes and flavors (though some say it’s rather light on the latter). It can be used in ways that produce no waste at all, though some prefer to peel them for aesthetic reasons or remove seeds from larger fruit. That’s not necessary if you pick them at medium size, when they’re at peak flavor and nutrition. Look for shiny, thin skins and leave them on for more nutrients. They can be stored, unwashed, in the refrigerator for up to a week, though nutrients are at their peak at harvest.

Summer squash (zucchini, crookneck and patty pan, in all their glorious colors) are excellent sources of manganese and vitamin C, good sources of magnesium, vitamin A, fiber and other minerals, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins B2 and 6, and protein. They’re low in calories and fat and extremely versatile. You could design an entire meal around them and would have to point out their role in some dishes since they get along so well with other ingredients, never demanding center stage, always content with supporting roles.

Enjoy them while the season lasts because they have to be imported in winter. Who could purchase a fresh summer squash in December without feeling more than just a little guilty?  And deservedly so.